And of course, I had no guidebook. Traveling in the Dominican Republic is incredibly easy as there are motoconchos on every corner, conchos/publicos that run between most cities, and guaguas that run similar routes. There are also taxis and rental cars as well as Carib Tours, Metro Tours, Habia Tours and many other big bus companies that can get you across the country in an air-conditioned tour bus for under $10USD. Motoconchos are guys with motorbikes and usually one or two of you jump on behind and they are ubiquitous with almost any corner in the DR. Conchos/publicos are four door sedans that usually cram six people in plus the driver and have little markers on top of various colors that tell you the route they run. Guaguas are basically the same as conchos/publicos, but they are vans which usually fit around 18-20 people and have longer routes.
Dad and I take a guagua from Luperon to Imbert (50 pesos/$1.50USD) and a publico from Imbert to Puerta Plata (40 pesos/$1.15USD), but of course there are some downsides as you never know how fast they will go or how many times they will have to stop to drop off or pick up people. The center of Puerta Plata is the Ciudad Parque (city park) where all of the “hearders” wait for tourists that they can shuffle around for a buck – avoid these guys in the yellow shirts at all costs. With the best intentions to explore the town the downpouring rain caused a bump in the road. After a bit too pricy lunch (very good calamari) at Armando, we sit in our hotel, Hotel Victoriano. It costs us just under $20USD per night which includes English television, a shower that has one of those electrical heads that turns the shower water from ice cold to just cold and is electrically dangerous if touched, as well as small cockroaches. Mid afternoon my bed starts to sway, from living in New Orleans in an old house I was used to a bit of shaking when big trucks went by, but there was no truck here. The middle of the room is shaking. The bathroom is shaking. Everything is shaking. It goes on for almost a minute. The 7.0 earthquake with the epicenter just outside of Port-o-Prince, Haiti caused only minor damage to the Puerta Plata hospital. Other than a trip to Sam’s Bar, the typical ex-pat hangout, for supper Dad and I spend little time exploring Puerta Plata.
I can’t even explain how many times I have been glued to a TV watching CNN disaster updates from a hotel room. After we barely edged out the tsunami in Phuket due to an overbooked flight, we sat in our hotel room in Bangkok and then Vietnam watching the devastation. After moving in to my dorm room in the morning and then moving out in the afternoon, Mom and I evacuated New Orleans with Hurricane Katrina on our heels. We watched the horror from hotel rooms in Orange, Texas and then a friend’s house in Alexandria, LA. Now this – an earthquake just across the border – what could be next?
Our next stop is Sosua which is near the airport for Dad.
With nice beaches and basically one main road, Calle Pedro Clisante, it is basically like Phuket lite, with lots of prostitutes, lady-boys, and old European men. The hotel here has hot water and is quite a step up. The town also offers lots of ex-pat bars including, Brittanica, which offers wonderful breakfasts including the most decadent banana split waffle. Another restaurant that I was in love with is Café Cubano which offers gourmet coffee and wonderful desserts (my favorite is her Banana Bread Pudding, but I have also enjoyed the Carrot Cake and Strawberry Cake).
Somehow it is still raining. It is unbelievable that the northerly that pushed our sailboat quickly into the DR will not desist in pouring rain on the Dominican north coast. Nevertheless, Dad and I go out for the night. Not really my scene as these Dominican hookers aren’t nearly as nice as the Thai ones who will play checkers and drink with you all night long. Dad quickly finds many guys to talk to, while I try the local hooch. Mamaguana is a rum based shot that you sip which is supposedly an aphrodisiac. It is cured in big E.J. Gallo wine bottles that are stuffed with local vines, leafs, and twigs as well as seasoned with honey and sugar. The traditional version also includes turtle testicals. It is very sweet, but packs a whoalip. Two dance clubs, a casino, and probably a whole bottle of Tanquery later I eat the best 4 am street food I had ever had – a pulled barbeque chicken sandwich on a Kaiser roll.
After a wild night, Dad is on his way to the airport and I am free to roam. With a whole country at my fingertips, where do I travel first? For 420 pesos/$12USD, I take a Metro Tours bus to Santa Domingo, the DR’s capital on the southern coast of the island, about four hours away. Why I think it is a good idea to be hungover on travel days will only baffle me… when will I learn my lessons? The bus ride through the interior of the island is mountainous, lush, green, gorgeous, picturesque, tropical… perfect. I have never understood the term “breathless” as I have never lost my breath over anything, but here I did. Looking out at the Jurassic Park vistas I literally gasped at the incredible landscapes. The Zona Colonial, Colonial Zone, is the main tourist center of the city and within walking distance of the Carib Tours bus stop (of course with no guide book I did not know this on the way in and caught a ride with an old man who picked up a translator to hit on me – always bring a guidebook). After searching in the rain forever I am finally brought to Bettye’s Guesthouse, why a hostel wouldn’t have a sign is beyond me. It is a normal run of the mill hostel, but at a bit higher of prices ($22USD per night). The artwork is gorgeous since the lobby is also a gallery and she provides the most wonderful free breakfast which includes grenadine soaked pineapple, gourmet coffee, and assorted breads.
The Obvious Entry for Bettye's Hostel.
For two days I explore the capital. Between sitting and people watching at Café Conde to exploring the Duarte Museum, I was finally in a place to survey a bit of the Dominican history. The best part, by far, was the Alcazar de Colon which is the waterfront area where Columbus’ son’s house is as well as the Casas Royales, which was incredibly enjoyable. It housed a very large collection of weapons donated by Trujillo that ranged from large muskets to swords and much more! During my walking tour of the town I keep trying to find the really neat historical buildings and archeological sites, but they are really small and crammed into the rest of the town. I also take in the fortress, a few street sandwiches, and a few nice dinners; but that was the extent of my travels through the capital.
Isn't it great what the rest of the world thinks of the U.S.
Columbus' son's beautiful waterfront compound
Pancho Villa's outfit - how come this only reminds me of two for one margaritas?
Knowing that the Sunday Sabbath was coming up I have to get to a town with a sports bar, so I head to Santiago (Carib Tours for 260 pesos/$7.45USD). Unfortunately last time I came to town I came in on Metro Tours, so I didn’t realize that when I went through Santiago it would be at a different site, since I am on Carib Tours. So somehow my stupidity and lack of Spanish skills put me in Mao – not at all where I want to be. After being sort of kicked off of the bus in the middle of nowhere I sit to have a very large beer and a good cry. After I regain my traveling cajones I jump on a guagua to Puerta Plata and arrive somewhere in Puerta Plata in the dark and in the rain. I am so drained from my travels and my obvious inability to travel. I give in and jump on the back of a motoconcho to take me to the center of town – just take me there!
Above Sam’s Bar is the oldest hotel, Hotel Castilla, in Puerta Plata and it is also the most disgusting hotel in Puerta Plata.
For 450 pesos/$12.85USD per night I get a room full of asbestos and probably many infectious diseases including but not limited to elephantitus, bed bugs, crabs, and necrotizing fasciitis. Thank goodness I had my towel to use as a blanket. After this I could have RAN out of Puerta Plata but two publicos later (40 pesos to Sosua then 20 pesos to Cabarete) I was in Cabarete. I am so happy to be in a windsurfing, kite surfing, laser sailing type of town. With one road and a beach full of bars I am so happy, also, it finally stopped raining, after almost three weeks! Cabarete is a great town as I stay in a hotel (Hotel Kaoba) which is not disgusting, but in fact wonderful. With bungalows, comfy beds, a nice pool, a safe, and much more for only $32USD per night. After a fabulous lunch at Café Pitu, it is finally time for some Sabbath football! Jose O’Shays, an Irish Dominican bar, that has roughly seven TVs including a big screen which are all tuned to the Vikings vs. Cowboys game. How glorious!
What a kick butt decisive game! I was so excited all the way through. There were way more Minnesota fans than Dallas fans, which is bizarre and everyone is seriously worked up! Jared has two guys on him at all times which makes Ray Edwards a very dangerous man. Favre manages to keep up with the rest of the team with some nice passes to Rice. I am so excited that I even become friends with a Canadian Brett Favre fan in a Jets jersey. We are at high tide with Brett Favre and with the NFC championship on the line I am about to join the B. Favre bandwagon.
For your appreciation (even though we all know how this game ended), I was very excited for the next week game.
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